Viva la France!

Free French Air Force Corporal Louie LeBeau (Robert Clary) of Hogan's Heroes would always say "Viva la France" whenever Tiger or another French underground agent left the safety of Hogan's Stalag Luft 13 to pursue a dangerous mission against the Germans in WWII.  I used that line while in a small WWII museum in Normandy.  The owner smiled in response.  Either the meaning was understood or she smiled in kindness. 

  

I really enjoyed my week in France.  To be honest, as a non-French speaker I was expecting a cold reception from the "man on the street".  Growing up in the States, it was assumed that if you didn't speak French, you would be treated rudely during a trip to France. Especially in Paris. THIS WAS NOT THE CASE.  I was treated well.

Avenue de Champs Elysees

My direct flight from Minnepolis to Paris arrived at 7:30 Sunday morning. Soon I was in my Mini Cooper heading to Normandy (Port de Bessin) to sight see.  The autoban between Paris in Port de Bessin was well marked with a speed limit of 130 km/hr.  There were numerous tolls to pass but soon I was in the countryside enjoying the ride. GPS worked great and took me directly to the hotel, but too soon to check in.   Let the sightseeing begin!

Fun car and easy to park in Paris

The road signs were not detailed, but good enough to get me to the American Cemetery on the Normandy coast. It was truly an impressive place with more than 12,000 graves of American soldiers (there is also a British and a Canadian cemetery in the area).  The grounds were immaculate and the interpretive center well laid out with plenty of information available.  A must see.

The cemetery is located on the plateau above the beach, with trails leading to the beach.  Now a tranquil beach with people enjoying a casual walk, but 60 years ago this beach was utter mayhem.  As I stood looking out to the ocean I realized that 60 years ago I would have been instantly killed standing on a war torn beach.  There are a few German pillboxes on the plateau and a concrete slab in the water. What the slab was used for is anyone's guess.



Omaha Beach



The pillboxes were built of reinforced concrete and steel. It must have been horrific for the young German soldiers stuck in these bunkers with the Allied bombardment and death knocking at the door.  War is hell.

Omaha Beach Bunker

After a few hours of reflection and investigation, I drove along highway D514 enroute to my hotel and dinner.  The GPS equipped Cooper was the perfect car for this trip. No need wasting time looking at a map. I just punched in the coordinates and headed to the hotel.  

St. Pierre du Mont Chateau

Of course I went off track many times to investigate interests along the way.  Farm fields, old houses, old churches and many cool roads and buildings.  Cropland in this area does not look too productive as the soil appears to be very light.  However the crops (corn, wheat and others I couldn't identify) were sufficient to feed the local residents.

Beautiful countryside!



I came upon a very old church which had been rebuild after the war.  There was a large sign in front of the church with a photo of American GI's crossing the road with the bombed out church in the background.  If the sign wasn't there, and you weren't familiar with the area, you'd have no idea this church was nearly leveled during the war.  Amazing how things change.

Colleville sur Mer

I checked into my hotel and took a short nap, then I went out to find the big German guns located at Longues-Sur-Mer.  The woman at the hotel did not know exactly where the guns were located (didn't know how to get to Point de Hoc either - weird).  I continued to take narrow roads heading toward the coast. Finally in a very small village, I asked a gentleman, well I pointed at a photo and smiled alot, and he pointed and smiled too. He sent me in the correct direction and soon I was at Longues-Sur-Mer! It was definitely worth the hunt.

BIG GUNS

 

There were only a few cars in the parking lot and two people in sight.  I inspected the four huge guns and earthen enbankments. The concrete must have been 1 meter thick and full of rebar. The ceiling contained a steel and wooden structure and the guns were massive with about a 200 mm bore.  Rifling too!!  A cooridor passed out the back alongside two storage areas.  The shell casings were long gone. Between the guns and the beach was a 200 meter wide wheat fields.

Tranquility

At the edge of the beach, about 50 meters above the beach, was the observation lookout post.  This heavy concrete installation was strategically located to provide a commanding view of Omaha beach down to Point de Hoc.  The German officers directed fire from the big guns at the Allied ships at sea.  Incredible!



Spotter's view of the Atlanta (Big Guns behind)



The day I was at Longues-Sur-Mer was very peaceful with sunny skies and a breeze from the ocean.  There is another parking lot which overlooks the ocean where a few families were camping and enjoying the day without concern that an incoming Allied round would blow them to kingdom come.



Nice clean bore, good rifling, usable barrel



From the RV campsite parking lot I drove down to the beach where a father and his three sons were checking their lobster or crab traps. The tide was out and the beach was fantastic - not for building sand castles but for exploring tide pools.  I collected a pocketful of rocks from the Atlantic coast and headed back to the hotel for dinner.

Beach below big guns

 

My hotel was situated in the countryside of Port de Bessin.  A comfortable hotel with a nice golf course, good restaurant and nice people. On Monday morning I enjoyed a good breakfast and talk with a young waitress from the town of Bayeux.  She spoke English and was very kind.

Omaha Beach Hotel

After breakfast I drove to Pointe Du Hoc where the Army Ranger team scaled the 30 meter tall cliffs and attacked the German troops during operation overload.  Before arriving at the point, I passed huge bomb craters and bombed out German gun emplacements.  65 years ago this place was under heavy bombardment.

What is left of a big gun

Now a group of French students on a field trip talked and laughed as all teenagers should do on a field trip. At that age, they have no comprehension of how terrible this place was years ago.  Hopefully in the future they will never experience anything like it.

Pointe du Hoc

Wow, what a place.  There is much more to see along the Omaha beach, but my time was brief.  As the vacation portion of my trip was ending, I began my drive to Rouen along the scenic route.  

Toasted Rolls Royce Merlin V-12 from a P-51 Mustang

Soon I stopped at Vierville museum seeing a P-51 Mustang engine laying in the parking lot. Now this is my type of museum!!! Also in the lot was a German observation post, a few larger German guns, a P-47 Jug engine and a bunch of other cool WWII stuff.  The museum was an old quonset hut, FULL of highly collectable items.

Tommy Gun!

A Thompson Machine Gun, another P-47 engine, various French resistance fighter stuff (bombs, knives, pistols), helmets, cable layers, etc, etc.  Well worth the 5 Euro entry fee.

Begrudgingly I left the museum and headed toward Rouen.  On the outskirts of a little town, I picked up a hitchhiker named Kenny Moulin McCloud. Mr. Moulin was surprised to be given a ride by an American, but we soon began to talk about Kenny's favorite musician - Bob Dylan.  We had a wonderful conversation and I was sad to see him off at the train station in Bayeux.  All the best to you Mr. McCloud.  There is a huge cathedral in Bayeux but time didn't allow me to stop and see it. Too bad, I only tasted a very thin slice of the Normandy coast. Lord willing I hope to return.



Bayeux



From Bayeux, I entered the expressway and on to Rouen.  The GPS did an excellent job of taking me downtown Rouen, across the Seine but we had some difficulty finding the Mercure in Rouen.

The roads in this part of town were very very narrow.  However I did see a small sign for the hotel and I eventually entered the hotel's underground parking. What a huge relief.  Dinner that night with two of my customers. 

Rouen city street

We enjoyed a wonderful meal in an outdoor cafe then a pleasant walk in old town.  There was a section of an old building with many large pockmarks in the walls. We surmised this as a likely gun battle site between the Resistance and the German troops stationed in Rouen.  Many lives must have been lost there.

La Couronne

After conclusion of a few days of meetings, me and one of my customers went to the town of Etretat on the coast.  What a beautiful coastline!!! The town has a huge tourist trap area but the coast is great!!!

Etretat Beach with fishing boats

The beach is pebbly with quaint fishing boats.  Archways of limestone jut into the ocean offer a spectacular view.  We walked along the pathways with beautiful vistas of the ocean, limestone arches and a golf course. Liam couldn't keep his eyes off the golf course and would soon be golfing in Ireland. Keep your eyes on the ball Liem.

Etretat France

We met for breakfast on Thursday, then I checked out and drove to Paris.  I stopped at my hotel near the airport, dumped off my luggage and drove in rush hour traffic towards the Arc de Triomphe.  Soon I was at a stop light with a Ferrai in the next lane and the Arc straight ahead!!!! Drag race?! 

Ferrarri vs. Cooper!

Wow, what a site - the Arc de Triomphe!!!  I entered the crazy roundabout to take a few photos then drove around the Arc a few times before heading down a street looking for a parking place.

About 1 km away, I found a spot for the little Cooper.  How to pay for parking?  The pay box didn't accept my Visa card so I took a chance and walked to the Arc.

Arc de Triomphe

It is a fantastic historical landmark.  After crossing a few roads I entered the underground walkway below the roundabout and soon I was at the Arc.  Very impressive!!!! I walked around the Arc and admired the architecture and statues.  Then I climbed the stairs inside the Arc and emerged on top.  The view from above was wonderful.  From the top you can see all twelve roads that meet in this central roundabout.  I looked at the skyline and soon the Eiffel Tower came into view!!  My next destination. 

Eiffel Tower

I returned to street level and sat below the Arc near the eternal flame of the unknown solider.  I imagined Napoleon posthumously brought through the Arc on a wagon. Unfortunately he did not live long enough to see his creation.  Then I imagined a photo I saw of the German army marching through the Arc in WWII and of a French man's tear filled face as the occupying army passed through the Arc.  Stunning.

 

View from top of Arc

I finally ran out of time and went to see the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre. A month is required to get a taste of Paris. I hurried back to my car expecting to see a huge ticket on the windshield but found none.  Now, what should I do?  Take a chance that my car will be unticketed or towed in the next 5 hours or move it to somewhere else, but where?  I took a chance.

Siene, Bridge and Effiel Tower

Soon the Eiffel Tower came into view.  It was quite impressive but nowhere near the magnitude of the Arc de  Triomphe.    I asked an attendant if there was parking at the Eiffel and she just looked at me like I was nuts.  We are lucky in the States because there are many parking lots. I didn't have time to go up into the Tower, but got a good view of the Eiffel Tower.  

Siene

Back across the Seine I walked toward the Louvre. I walked and walked and walked.  I stopped a few times to admire the buildings and scenery along the Seine.  While looking over a bridge a woman approached me and tried the old "I found this ring do you want it sir scan".  She basically forced it on me and then asked for some money for coffee.  At this time I was ticked off and gave her the ring back and told her to take a hike.  I walked away hearing her say " but mister.............". Soon she will approach another victim. Don't give in!! Now I say this to add a little drama to the story. This is not a slight on Paris as this type of thing happens world wide.  I definitely want to return to Paris.

Paris

Finally after asking for confirming directions I made it to the Louvre.  However it was closing in 10 minutes!!! Argh!!!!!!!  I ate a quick lunch/dinner in the gift shop then went back outside and admired the building.  If the outside of the building is that nice, I can't imagine how nice the inside must be. Hopefully I will see the inside some day (check the hours before you go).

Louvre!

Time to find my car.  I began my walk down the famous Avenue de Champs Elysees from the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe.  It was a wonderful night for a walk and I enjoyed every step.  Soon the Arc came into view and eventually my car. On the way, I saw a Renault with a large clamp on the rear wheel!  Would this be the fate of my little Cooper?  My pace quickened and finally my Mini - without a ticket and without a wheel clamp!!  I hopped into the car, set the GPS to hotel and took off before the cops arrived.  Soon I was driving through Paris and eventually the expressway to the hotel.

Early Friday morning I dropped the Copper off at the Airport and flew home for my daughter's 19th birthday.  A great trip with a perfect ending.